North Beach, San Francisco · restaurant
Seven dedicated ovens calibrated to twelve distinct pizza styles — Neapolitan wood-fired, New York coal-fired, Detroit pan, St. Louis thin crust — line the kitchen at this North Beach institution that reads more like an international pizza congress than a neighborhood joint. The Margherita (blistered, sparse, wood-smoke) is the anchor; the coal-fired New York slice and the Detroit square give you every reason to order more than one pie. Weekend waits run long — check the online waitlist before you arrive.