North Beach, San Francisco ยท restaurant
A compact Columbus Avenue spot anchored by a mozzarella bar (mozzarella di bufala, fior di latte, and burrata all imported from Puglia) that arrives as the appetizer before the Neapolitan pies do. The pizzas run on Caputo flour from Naples and San Marzano D.O.P. tomatoes, blistered in a wood-fired oven, and the sidewalk line on weekend evenings tells you what the regulars already know.