North Beach, San Francisco · restaurant
A sprawling, buzzy room in the former Rose Pistola space on Columbus Avenue, built for groups and packed every night since day one. The three-day naturally-leavened dough comes out airy and slightly crunchy — the Cacio e Pepe white pie is the bestseller, but the OG Osso (bone marrow, mustard greens, fresh horseradish) is the kitchen's signature, made daily and dine-in only. The salted caramel soft serve at the end is never a mistake.