Hayes Valley, San Francisco ยท restaurant
Housemade pasta and wood-fired pizza in a spacious, high-ceilinged room that earns its weeknight crowds. The radiatori cacio e pepe and the spaghetti with manila clams and broccoli di cicco make the pasta case clearly; the bucatini in early girl pomodoro is the one to start with. A tight Italian wine list and a room loud enough to skip the indoor-voice rules.