Chelsea, Manhattan · restaurant
The circular bar at the center of this sprawling Chelsea seafood house is the room's actual center of gravity—order a Bunna Martini, pick at the lamb dumplings, and watch the night get away from you. Bold black mermaid murals cover the walls, and the menu swings from Scandinavian cured salmon to crispy African-spiced chicken drumsticks with the confidence of a kitchen that has nothing to prove.