Hayes Valley, San Francisco · restaurant
A triangular bi-level room on Market Street with a copper bar, art-covered walls, and windows that pull in the afternoon light. The wood-fired roasted chicken arrives whole for two — brined for days and crisped in a brick oven, with a Tuscan bread salad soaked through in the drippings — and takes forty-five minutes from order to table, which is exactly what it needs. The copper bar up front is where the solo crowd lands, oysters and a glass from the French-leaning wine list.