Hermosa Beach, Los Angeles · restaurant
Steaks hit an 800-degree broiler, and the cioppino shows up loaded with shrimp, clams, and calamari in a white wine cream that doesn’t hold back. Focaccia with a trio of dips lands before you’ve made a decision, which tells you how the night’s going to go. While it reads beach-casual, the skirt steak and ahi tartare with crispy wontons make it clear this isn’t a walk-up fish shack.