Noho, Manhattan · restaurant
A pizzeria with the heart of a jazz club and the bartenders of an old union hall—gruff, skilled, and likely working the same shift since the Reagan administration. The walls tell their own story, plastered with oil paintings and murals from a Village that no longer exists, but somehow still lingers here. Get there at 5 if you want to sit at the bar’s coveted eight stools, and don’t be the guy who asks for ranch.