Brentwood-Westwood, Los Angeles · restaurant
Red leather booths, suited waiters, stained-glass panels, and a tablecloth brushed between courses — the whole room operates like a special occasion is always in progress. Order the Rigatoni Chicago: al dente tubes packed with peppery sausage and marinara so thick it seeps in; or go for the dover sole in browned-butter and white-wine gravy that does most of the talking.