West Hollywood, Los Angeles · restaurant
The rustic building on Laurel Canyon looks like it was beamed in from a Tuscan hillside, which gives the organic Italian cooking something to live up to — and mostly it does. Cedar-grilled salmon and Zeus pizza heaped with fresh prosciutto have been crowd-tested since 1999, and the candlelit room draws a low-key celebrity dinner crowd that makes the people-watching as good as the food.