West Village, Manhattan · restaurant
A place that keeps things tight, with just a couple dozen seats and a menu that shifts with the seasons around a few steady anchors. The pork chop has earned its permanence, while Mediterranean-leaning plates and those gravy meatball sliders in garlic-parmesan buns keep the rest of the table moving. The wine list stays focused rather than sprawling, and it’s the kind of room you’ll want to book ahead if you don’t want to take your chances at the door.