Hayes Valley, San Francisco · bar
Eight seats, a door on Linden Street that most people walk past, and no reservations — the setup is part of the draw. The cocktails build from the farmers' market: celery root with green Chartreuse in the Root of It, strawberry kosho in the Bird of Paradise, quince in the Bramble On — a rotating cast of produce-forward drinks that taste like someone thought hard about each one. The back bar, deep in Japanese whisky and amaro, gives the room far more range than eight seats have any right to.