Santa Monica, Los Angeles · restaurant
A jewel-box dining room inside the Oceana hotel, wrapped in deep tones and soft light, where the menu splits its loyalties between the Pacific and Paris. The Sweet Corn Agnolotti with crab and Santa Barbara uni is the kind of dish that justifies a reservation, and the Caesar arrives prepared tableside for anyone who appreciates the theater of it. Wednesday nights bring live music from 7 to 9:30, which turns what could be a quiet hotel dinner into something worth dressing up for.