San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles · restaurant
A fire-cooked kitchen on Mulholland Highway where the kitchen runs on local red oak and has no freezer, which means the clams, bone-in rib eyes, and fish specials sell out when they sell out. The long bar was salvaged from a Virginia City, Nevada saloon, and the whole place carries that same my-way-or-the-highway gravitas. Come Thursday through Sunday and order whatever is still available.