Cobble Hill / Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn · restaurant
Coastal wine bar on a Cobble Hill corner where the menu leans toward the obscure edges of the sea. Goose barnacles, anchovy plates with vanilla butter, risotto folded with conch and smoked eel. The whipped mackerel on grilled bread is the order that converts skeptics; ceviche arrives with fried saltines instead of chips, and the list of coastal European wines is balanced yet exotic.