Cobble Hill / Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn · restaurant
Coastal wine bar on a Cobble Hill corner where the menu leans toward the obscure edges of the sea — goose barnacles, anchovy plates with vanilla butter, risotto folded with conch and smoked eel. The whipped mackerel on grilled bread is the order that converts skeptics; ceviche arrives with fried saltines instead of chips, and the list of coastal European wines is balanced yet exotic.