Manhattan Beach, Los Angeles · restaurant
A Korean restaurant in a Torrance strip mall where the gamjatang is worth the drive from anywhere in the city. The pork bone soup arrives as a towering pot of neckbones, potatoes, and cabbage simmering on a tabletop burner, and the move is to add fried rice at the end, cooked in the leftover broth. Grilled short rib over silky mashed potatoes and pork jowl with cilantro chimichurri round out a small menu that punches well above its strip-mall setting.