San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles · restaurant
A corner Thai spot on Ventura where the Northern-style menu goes further than pad thai, with sai ua (pork sausage spiced with lemongrass and galangal), papaya salad made with fish sauce, and a Pad Kee Mao that comes out wide and deeply charred. The Wild Tom Yum Goong runs fragrant and sharp. Lunch is when the dining room is fullest.
Wide rice noodles stir-fried with Thai basil, chiles, and choice of protein
Green papaya with fish sauce, garlic, dried shrimp, lime, and Thai chilies
Pork sausage with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime, and chilies