North Beach, San Francisco · shop
The same brick oven that warmed this Washington Square corner in 1911 is still the only one in the building — four Soracco generations later, it turns out nothing but focaccia, wrapped in white parchment and priced for exact cash change. Green onion is the classic order, raisin is the cult pick, and pizza-style — tomato and green onions — lands somewhere between the two; whichever you want, come early, because most days the shelves clear before noon. San Francisco eventually made it a Legacy Business, which is the kind of thing you say about a place when you cannot imagine the neighborhood without it.