Soho, Manhattan · restaurant
The menu changes daily, built around whatever came in fresh that morning. Panisse one night, hand-cut tagliatelle the next, always somewhere between French and Italian without feeling rigid about either. White tablecloths, muted walls, and the corner room at King and Sixth give it the kind of understated polish Soho does especially well.
Cold veal with tuna sauce, capers, marinated anchovy, and a soft egg
Hand-cut pasta with stinging nettle pesto from a daily-changing menu
Crispy chickpea cake — a Southern French staple, done simply and right
Puff pastry take on scallion pancakes. Delicate, layered, frequently the most buzzed-about bite.