Upper Manhattan, Manhattan · restaurant
French comfort food in a world-bohemian setting — whitewashed brick, Edison bulbs, African figurines, and tables that fill up fast on weekends. Gambas is the dish that shows up in every review: bechamel-heavy macaroni topped with garlicky shrimp that somehow works as a single entree. Weekend patio brunch runs bottomless cocktails, which explains the crowd forming before noon.