Hayes Valley, San Francisco ยท restaurant
A warm, art-forward dining room where the menu moves between dim sum-style small plates and entrees rooted in Hong Kong, Beijing, and Sichuan technique. Five-spice quail arrives lacquered and crisped, biang biang noodles with chili oil, and a Chasiu Iberico pork jowl served with scallion rice that tends to end most debates about ordering. The $120 tasting menu strings together the greatest hits for anyone doing a proper first visit.