Chinatown, Manhattan · restaurant
The meal starts with sourdough tortillas brushed in chicken fat and recado negro butter, which tells you immediately this is operating on its own wavelength. From there, the tasting menu moves through beef cecina tlayuda, potato udon in cornhusk dashi, and duck enmoladas in a compact Allen Street dining room that feels both meticulous and loose at the same time. Michelin-starred and named one of Bon Appétit’s best new restaurants of 2024, with reservations that disappear accordingly.