Chinatown, Manhattan · restaurant
Sourdough tortillas brushed in chicken fat and recado negro butter open the meal, and the kitchen stays on its own wavelength from there. The tasting menu moves through beef cecina tlayuda, potato udon in cornhusk dashi, and duck enmoladas in a compact dining room that feels both meticulous and loose at the same time. Michelin-starred and named one of Bon Appétit’s best new restaurants, with reservations that disappear accordingly.
Cured beef on a crunchy tlayuda with edamame guac and grasshoppers (chapulines).
Duck with black garlic mole, crispy chicharron, and cotija. A mole worth rethinking.
Sourdough with chicken fat, served with recado negro butter. Hits.