San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles · restaurant
A tiny Michoacán-style cash-only counter with six tables in Pacoima, where the goat birria comes with fresh tortillas for dunking and the kitchen turns out harder-to-find dishes like morisqueta — pork ribs in spicy salsa roja over white rice with cotija. The aporreadillo, an egg scramble with dried beef that keeps its crispy edges, is worth knowing about before you order.