Midtown, Manhattan · bar
Sharing a wall with Le Bernardin in Midtown, this is the anti-version of its four-star neighbor: canvas sneakers on the staff, kitschy decor on one wall, and wine by the glass in the same handblown Zalto Austrian crystal used two doors down. The salmon rillettes come straight out of the Le Bernardin kitchen and land alongside a rotating Alsatian-leaning wine list that punches well above its price range. At 9PM nightly, a large-format bottle gets opened and poured for whoever is at the bar — no reservation, just show up.